The classic first Himalayan climbing peak at 6,189 m
Island Peak - locally known as Imja Tse - is a 6,189 m peak in the heart of the Khumbu, named by Eric Shipton in 1951 because it appears as an 'island in a sea of ice' when viewed from Dingboche. It is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal and the classic first Himalayan climb for those aspiring to bigger mountaineering objectives.
Our 16-day expedition combines a classic Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar trek - for proper acclimatization - with the ascent of Island Peak itself. After trekking to Base Camp and back, the route diverges to Chhukung and up to Island Peak Base Camp, where the climbing team establishes a tented camp and an experienced climbing Sherpa runs a skills training day.
The summit day involves pre-dawn climbing on a rocky trail, then a glacier crossing and a final 100 m headwall of fixed ropes leading to the summit. From the top, you get a stunning close-up view of Lhotse's massive south face, Baruntse and the Amphu Labtsa pass. Previous high-altitude trekking experience is essential; no previous technical climbing experience is required.
Arrive in Kathmandu. Meet your climbing Sherpa for a full expedition briefing and equipment check. Welcome dinner in the evening.
Bring your climbing gear - we will check fit tonight.
Fly to Lukla, then trek along the Dudh Koshi to Phakding and up to Namche Bazaar (3,440 m). Acclimatization day in Namche with a hike to the Everest View Hotel.
Acclimatization is essential for the summit push.
Trek to the famous Tengboche Monastery, then to Dingboche (4,410 m) with an acclimatization day hiking Nangkartshang Peak (5,083 m) for views of Makalu.
Acclimatization day is non-negotiable - respect it.
Trek to Lobuche, then to Everest Base Camp (5,364 m) and back to Gorak Shep. Climb Kala Patthar (5,545 m) for sunrise views of Everest. Then descend and traverse to the village of Chhukung (4,730 m) at the foot of Island Peak.
Big days - eat well and stay hydrated.
Trek to Island Peak Base Camp (5,100 m) for a skills training day. Wake at 2 AM for the summit push - climb the glacier and the fixed-rope headwall to the 6,189 m summit. Descend all the way to Base Camp, then to Chhukung. Over the next three days, descend to Namche and Lukla. Fly back to Kathmandu.
Be honest with your Sherpa about how you feel on summit day.
Choose the option that suits you best.
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<p>Pemba has summited Everest twice and guided more than 60 successful climbing expeditions on Island Peak, Lobuche East and Mera Peak. He holds international mountain guide certification and specializes in high-altitude acclimatization.</p>
<p>Ang Phurba has guided more than 40 expeditions on peaks above 6,000 m. A native of Pangboche, he has summited Everest, Manaslu and Cho Oyu.</p>
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Summit day starts at 2 AM. You climb a rocky trail for 2-3 hours to the glacier, then cross the glacier with crampons, then climb a 100 m headwall of 50-60 degree snow and ice using fixed ropes and a jumar ascender. The summit is typically reached around 9-10 AM after 7-8 hours of climbing. The descent back to Base Camp takes another 3-4 hours.
No previous technical climbing experience is required, but previous high-altitude trekking experience (to at least 5,000 m) is essential. Your climbing Sherpa will teach you all the necessary skills - crampon use, ice axe self-arrest, ascending fixed ropes with a jumar, descending with a figure-8 descender - during a dedicated training day at Base Camp.
We provide all technical climbing equipment: crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet, jumar, carabiners, fixed ropes. You need to bring personal climbing clothing - insulated jacket, down jacket, mountaineering boots (B2 or B3 rated), warm gloves, gaiters and glacier glasses. A detailed gear list is provided on booking, and most equipment can be rented in Kathmandu.
Island Peak Climbing
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