A 6,119 m peak above the Khumbu Glacier with Everest views
Lobuche Peak (6,119 m) is a striking summit that rises directly above the Khumbu Glacier, offering one of the best climbing peak experiences in the Everest region. The peak has two summits - Lobuche East (6,119 m) and Lobuche West (6,145 m) - and we climb Lobuche East, which is classified as a trekking peak.
Our 14-day expedition combines a classic Everest Base Camp trek for acclimatization with the ascent of Lobuche East. The climbing route involves a high camp on a small col at 5,500 m, then a long summit day on snow and ice using fixed ropes on the final headwall. From the summit, you get an outstanding close-up view of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Pumori and the entire Khumbu glacier.
Lobuche is slightly more technical than Island Peak, with sustained snow climbing and a steeper summit headwall. Previous high-altitude trekking experience (to at least 5,000 m) is essential; basic familiarity with crampons and ice axe is helpful but not required - your climbing Sherpa will provide training.
Arrive in Kathmandu. Meet your climbing Sherpa for a full expedition briefing and equipment check. Welcome dinner in the evening.
Bring your climbing gear - we will check fit tonight.
Fly to Lukla, then trek along the Dudh Koshi to Phakding and up to Namche Bazaar (3,440 m). Acclimatization day in Namche with a hike to the Everest View Hotel.
Acclimatization is essential for the summit push.
Trek to Tengboche Monastery, then to Dingboche (4,410 m) for acclimatization, then over the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier to Lobuche (4,910 m).
Above 4,900 m - slow and steady.
Trek to Everest Base Camp (5,364 m) and back to Gorak Shep. The next morning, climb Kala Patthar (5,545 m) for sunrise views of Everest. Descend to Lobuche and traverse to Lobuche Base Camp (4,950 m).
Big days - eat well and stay hydrated.
Climbing skills training day at Base Camp. Then climb to High Camp (5,500 m), and summit day: pre-dawn start, fixed ropes on the headwall, summit at 6,119 m. Descend to Base Camp, then trek to Pangboche, Namche and Lukla over three days. Fly back to Kathmandu.
Summit day is 10-12 hours - eat a big breakfast.
Choose the option that suits you best.
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<p>Ang Phurba has guided more than 40 expeditions on peaks above 6,000 m. A native of Pangboche, he has summited Everest, Manaslu and Cho Oyu.</p>
<p>Pemba has summited Everest twice and guided more than 60 successful climbing expeditions on Island Peak, Lobuche East and Mera Peak. He holds international mountain guide certification and specializes in high-altitude acclimatization.</p>
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Lobuche East (6,119 m) is slightly lower than Island Peak (6,189 m) but is generally considered a more technical climb. Lobuche has a longer sustained snow climb and a steeper final headwall with more fixed rope work. Island Peak has a longer glacier approach. Both are graded PD and require similar equipment. Lobuche offers better views of Everest from the summit.
No previous technical climbing experience is required, but previous high-altitude trekking experience (to at least 5,000 m) is essential. We include an acclimatization trek to Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar (5,545 m) before the climb. Your climbing Sherpa will teach you the necessary skills during a dedicated training day at Base Camp.
The summit of Lobuche East offers one of the best panoramas in the Khumbu - a close-up view of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Pumori, Changtse, Ama Dablam and the entire Khumbu Glacier. Many climbers consider the summit view of Lobuche to be superior to that from Kala Patthar, because you are higher and closer to the peaks.
Lobuche Peak Climbing
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